Midnight Sun

An earlier and cooler morning for this day’s travels! This day was devoted to geology, scenery and concluding what has been an elusive hunt for the last resting place of Johnny Lang.

An aside. Thanks to digital cameras small storage footprint and the ability to delete at no cost, I take a lot of pictures. Sometimes they are good (very occasionally), sometimes they are so-so (more often than not), and sometimes they are junk. However, sometimes the junk ones are the ones that you wanted the most. I generally have a suspicion or even awareness when I think a photo is not going to turn out. My problem is that as I take the photo, in the back of my mind, I hear Seals and Crofts singing “We May Never Pass This Way” which way back in 1973 had a very defining influence on me. So here is the picture I am talking about. Later in the day with a different sun angle, this would have been, as Captain Ron says, “A CLASSIC”. For now, you have to squint a bit to see that the shadowed figure in the lower portion of photo is Joni.

Our park day began with a stop not far from the West Entrance at an outcrop of the most prevalent and iconic rock type in the park, 85- to 100-million-year-old quartz monzonite (lets simplify that to granite). A geologist who I follow on U2ube had stopped there and got into a discussion of aplite. I’m thinking, my old (never refuse a free drink) petrology professor never mentioned aplite…what on gods great flat earth is an aplite? The U2ber explained and I looked it up.

The lighter colored rock below the beer bottle opener, cheese cutter, nail cleaner is a classic aplite. You may be saying “Whoa there PacoPegmatite, Thats a pegmatite”. Nay Nay; here is a pegmatite right next to the pretty lady shivering in the electric socks on a different trip to JTNP.

Aplite is a fine-grained intrusive (never has seen the light of day until the magic of uplift and erosion) igneous rock, that has cooled relatively quickly. It forms in later stages of magma cooling relatively deep in the bowels of the earth usually in narrow fractures or small spaces, when the primary minerals left in the gooey or liquid stew are quartz, feldspar and mica … (for the non-geologist recognizing two out of three is a passing grade). It has a light color and a uniform sugary texture. So, the aplite may be a couple of tens of thousands of years younger than the 200-million-year-old granite it is found in.

Pegmatites are a coarse-grained intrusive rock (same basic recipe as aplite with the addition of potentially rare minerals, gold for instance) that forms from the slow cooling of magma, leading to extremely large crystals. Usually, pegmatites are formed in larger veins or voids in the magma. Similar types of goo as aplite, but much slower cooling rate. Pegmatites as solid chunks of rock might be many tens to hundreds of thousands of years younger than the rock you find it in.

Field Trip

Johnny Lang

Johnny Lang was a gentleman of questionable moral turpitude (as many of the inhabitants of the Joshua Treen NP area in the late 1800’s were) who, for whatever reason, had his life chronicled in some detail. What follows are excerpts from an article written by Allison Johnson entitled The Lost Horse Gold Mine.

Johnny was born in Texas in 1850, he began as a cattle rancher. In the 1890s, he and his father moved west with their grazing herds. At some point Johnny was the proprietor of the first saloon in Twentynine Palms. However, he and his father had serious gold fever, and they gave up their cows to search for riches beyond their wildest dreams. We lose track of dad Lang around this time. However, we know that Johnny’s efforts paid off. The Lost Horse Mine was the area’s most successful mine. Most of the gold the Lost Horse Mine would ever produce – nine thousand troy ounces – was extracted during the first ten years of operation, at the turn of the 20th century. Johnny Lang figures in every version of the mine’s discovery, the common factor being that the legendary prospector found the mine while in pursuit of his wandering horse. One story, although it seems that it was formulated after the fact due to Johnny’s bias, suggests that while looking for his horse, he sat on a rock to dislodge a stone from his shoe when he looked down, he saw the dull yellow of gold. About that time, a group of cattle-rustlers – the infamous McHaney Brothers among them – discovered Lang in their vicinity. They threatened Johnny off.

Not to be deterred and tired of walking, Johnny reunited with his horse in the rustler’s camp who admitted that they had confiscated it. On inquiry, assuredly over cocktails, they directed Johnny to “Dutch Frank” Diebold’s camp where Diebold revealed to him that he had discovered a large gold strike but had been unable to claim it because of interference from the McHaneys. Lang purchased the claim rights from Diebold for one thousand dollars, and he took on partners with enough clout to move on it. The partners eventually sold their shares to the Ryan brothers (Ryan Mountain from previous blogs) and Johnny took over the night shift at the mine.

Suspicions were aroused when the Lost Horse processing plant’s night shift operations (Johnny’s watch) produced significantly less gold than that of the day shift. After setting up a “sting,” the Ryans confronted Lang with a choice of selling his stake or going to jail. Lang sold his portion for twelve thousand dollars.

The aging prospector moved into a deserted cabin in an area near Hidden Valley, later named Johnny Lang Canyon, where he worked a smaller claim. At some point, he moved into Keys’ Desert Queen Ranch for a time, but the arrangement was never comfortable because of Johnny’s reputation as a thief. While at the Desert Queen Ranch, Johnny began selling large amounts of gold to Bill Keys, too great a quantity to have come from his small mine in Johnny Lang Canyon. Keys and others believed that the miner was secretly refining the gold he had skimmed and buried in earlier years. When the Lost Horse Mine was finally abandoned, Lang returned to his former haunt, taking up residence in an old shack that had served as a kitchen.

On a winter morning in 1925, Johnny Lang rolled up his canvas sleeping bag and packed what remained of his supplies, a half-slice of bacon and a small sack of flour. He would have to hoof it from his mining site in hopes of catching a freight wagon into Banning, some fifty miles away. Gone were his burros. He had eaten those one by one. The seventy-five-year-old prospector slung his gear over his shoulder, and tacked a note, dated January 25th, to the ramshackle desert hut that served as his home: “Gone for grub. Be back soon.”

Three months later, Bill Keys and two companions were constructing the road to what is now Keys View, and they happened upon Johnny’s mummified body. The burnt remnants of a nearby bush and the thin sleeping bag that Johnny was wrapped in left the men to conjecture that the old miner had died when he stopped to make camp… probably partially brought on by mercury poisoning from exposure to the gold amalgam he had “acquired” on the night shift and was processing in lieu of social security checks :).

So, alas, Johnny could rest in peace. Hold on there… not really. In 1983, morons robbed the grave site of Mr. Lang taking his skull and bones. However, the grave site remained, was restored and is reportedly on the road to Keys View near the Lost Horse Mine Road. We finally found the grave on this trip. Again, some bad sun angles but pictures of the discovery.

Kiara had to leave later in the evening for work the next day, so we celebrated the birthday a little early by heading down to Morongo Valley to a restaurant called Spaghetti Western. Very commendable Italian fare accompanied by live light jazz and on our visit interspersed with some jazzed-up versions of Christmas carols.

This year, as I started my 70^th trip around the sun (it is more important to finish and celebrate the end of that trip, but it was a good excuse to get away), we opted for four days in Joshua Tree. For those that read this blog often, you know that JTNP is a very special place for me. When we were sailing, almost any day we were on the water, I would say ” I could do this all day, every day”. Joshua Tree has taken the oceans place for me.

We organized an Airbnb located in the town of Joshua Tree CA and only about 10 minutes from the park entrance. A very nice 2-bedroom place that had views to the north; was very nicely appointed and served as a great base of operations.

Home base!

Kiara joined us on the evening of the 4^th and spent a couple of days with us.

We had five goals during this trip, 2 historical tasks, 3 geologic tasks plus the usual goals of food, drink, rest, relaxation and conversation. The historical tasks included a visit/tour to Keys Ranch and locating and visiting Johnny Lang’s grave (no relation to Ruth). The three geologic stops included field trips to see an aplite dike, the roof pendant at Ryan Mountain and a visit to a more accessible pile of the Pinto Gneiss which is the roof pendant at Ryan Mountain. The rest of the activities we were just going to go with the flow.

We arrived a little early for check-in to the place, so we started the visit with food and drink at the Joshua Tree Saloon. They had our favorite local beers from Coachella Valley Brewing Company plus very tasty food at very reasonable pricing and a large parking area.

We had a reservation to get a guided tour of Key’s Ranch on Thursday morning. The Park Service restricts visitors to this area to guided tours to preserve the historical nature of the location as without a doubt, morons would surely vandalize and sack the area.

Bill Keys was a guy who made everyone else in the world look lazy (and still does to this day). He was the original poster child in the late 1800’s and through the first half of the 20^th century, for sustainability. Bill was born in Nebraska as George Barth in about 1879 or so. He changed his name to Bill Key (nobody knows why) when he signed up with Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders. Later in life, the postman was complaining that there were two guys with very similar last names in the area that is now Joshua Tree NP so Bill added an “S” to his last name to help distinguish himself. In 1910, Bill became the caretaker of the Desert Queen Mine, setting up home at the current location which was the mine mill. About five years later, the mine owner passed on with never having paid Bill for his service. Bill filed against the estate of the owner and was awarded the mine and mill. He then filed a homesteading claim for another 160 adjacent acres and was awarded that.

In 1918, Bill went to the big city of Los Angeles and met, married and then lured Frances May Lawton out to the homestead. She was every bit as creative and focused as Bill in building a life at the Ranch. They had seven children, buried three and raised four. Bill mined, ran stamp mills for other miners, farmed, raised cattle, built five dams out of the local stone and little else, improved upon existing dams, built roads (including one still bearing his name), explored the desert extensively, and started the first elementary school in Joshua Tree with Frances initially serving as teacher. Eventually as more students began stopping in from around the area, they hired a teacher. It became the Desert Queen Elementary School run by the County. Meanwhile, Frances also tended to the garden, managed the household (yearning for refrigeration) and canned sometimes 400 quarts of food yearly, tended to the generator, which they only used sparingly, managed the kids assigning common chores like getting water from the well, feeding chickens and such. She eventually started the first small store in the area and rented out cabins and even beds under the stars for visitors to the area.

Bill and Frances were masters at using and reusing everything. As an example, most folks don’t realize that there is no good source of wood in the Joshua Tree area. Joshua trees are not really trees and the burn very poorly giving off little heat. They are now protected, or at least they were as of yesterday. Therefore, any wood that the Keys had was brought in from as far away as Banning and Beaumont, CA. They saved and reused everything. When the desert training center south of the park at Chiriaco Summit, CA was closed after WW II, Bill took many trips there and salvaged stoves, beds, vehicles and equipment. Some of the photos below include stuff from those forays.

Some may remember from an earlier post that Bill had a little run-in with the law when Worth Bagley, a somewhat eccentric neighbor, went a little crazy and ambushed Bill just off of the ranch (there is an NP marker on the Barker Dam trail where this incident occurred). Bill returned fire and killed Worth dead. The rock below was at the location of the altercation until it was clear that morons were going to deface it. The Park Service rescued the rock and marked the spot with something more indestructible…(really; more indestructible than a rock???)

A court, with prejudices and proclivities very similar to today’s highest court in the land, sent Bill to San Quentin for murder and at age 69 after 5-years in the pokey, he was released and eventually pardoned due to public pressure particularly from Erle Stanley Gardner. He returned to the ranch and picked up where he left off saying that he had a lot of time to read and work out improvements on the place while he was incarcerated. In 1950 Frances, the kids and Bill finished upgrading Barker Dam and then settled in at the Ranch making a living from the increasing number of visitors to the Joshua Tree area. All of the Keys children left their parents’ desert paradise and went on to long successful lives. In 1963, Frances died, and six years later, on June 28th, 1969, Bill Keys at the ripe old age of 90-ish joined her. Along with mom and dad, three of the kids who passed at very young ages are buried in a small cemetery, located on a hill above the drainage on the south side of the ranch area. The Park Service eventually took over all of the Keys Ranch except for the cemetery which is still owned and maintained by the descendants of Frances and Bill.

Our tour was led by a gentleman named Thomas Crochetiere a local historian, park volunteer and writer who has produced several books on the history of the area concentrating on Bill Keys. Needless to say, he knew his stuff, was very entertaining and very informative.

Photos of Keys Ranch

The afternoon was assigned to visiting the Indian Cove Area, a part of the park that we had not visited in the past. Yet another fine edited NP map below showing the location of Keys Ranch, Barker Dam and our route to Indian Cove.

Indian Cove was very Joshua Treeish with rocks, trees, cholla and of course Joshua Trees. Most of all, on December 5^th, it was relatively deserted. There were a few diehards in the campground. They had the primo spots. We did a short hike on the Indian Cove Nature Trail; a .75 mile walk with signs describing vegetation and geology. The views were spectacular and overall, I would rate the scenery and the natural surroundings as excellent. It was a very low-key walk.

However, not low enough key to forgo a congratulatory beer at the end of an exciting day. The sun goes down pretty early on the north side of the park in early December. We drove over to the picnic area, found a likely looking rock and sat back to enjoy a cerveza.

There are two areas of Zion NP that are definitely not as well traveled as the main South Entrance/Scenic Drive area. Kolob Canyons is about a 45-mile drive from Springdale via Utah SR-9 westbound and down and then I-15 north. A second area, Kolob Terrace, sort of splits the park into the northwest Canyons area and the southeast South Entrance area. Access to this area is off of Utah SR-9 and then a 15-mile drive north, deep into the Terrace environment. Neither of these areas are burdened with shuttle activities in the high time of the year, and yet both offer magnificent views and some great hiking activities. We spent all of Tuesday 2/25 in these two areas.

The Kolob Canyons scenic road is a 10.4-mile long road leaving from a small, but very friendly, visitor center on a more or less continuous climb first across the Hurricane Fault and then to work our way up past Chinle, Kayenta and Navajo outcrops to a very expansive scenic view that, on this day, was good for a faint view of Humphreys Peak near Flagstaff, Az. Haven’t talked much about the Kayenta or the Chinle because over on the south scenic drive, these formations, while present, are at the bottom of the Navajo and because they weather and erode easier are usually not as visible since frequently vegetation and soil somewhat hides them. The Kayenta Formation is a reddish-brown to pink sandstone with interbedded siltstones and mudstones. These units are about 190-200 million years old (Jurassic period) and represent deposited in streams and rivers in an arid environment that slowly became the desert environment that encouraged the deposition of the Navajo Formation.

Kayenta Formation – Kolob Canyons

The Chinle Formation also consists of colorful mudstone, siltstone, sandstone and conglomerates. The mudstones are predominately a clay from weathering of volcanic ash. The Chinle is about 210-225 years old (Triassic period). Both the Chinle and the Kayenta are rich with dinosaur fossils. The Chinle is also famous for petrified wood which we have talked about back several posts when we visited Petrified Forest NP.

The Chinle, not as well exposed but makes up the rocks on each side of the road.

At the end of the Kolob scenic drive is the Timber Creek Overlook Trail which is about 1.25 miles out and back and provides great views of the Navajo Formation to the east, the Pine Mountains to the west and the Colorado Plateau for as far as you can see to the south. On this day the trail was a bit wet and muddy in spots as there was still snow on the ground at many locations along the trail. Joni was still nursing her leg a bit, but with slow measured walking and careful stepping, she was able to negotiate most of the trail. She stopped at the high point before the southern trail end since the money shot was all steep downhill from there with a lot of rocks and loose cobbles and pebbles. All in all, a nice last hike in Zion NP. Gallery below has photos from the trail

We worked our way back down the road stopping along the way for a picnic lunch across from the Kayenta Formation photo above. Cheese, crackers, sausage, chocolate and Topo Chico blueberry was on the lunch menu for this day.

Then the requisite sign picture as we left the Kolob Canyons and headed back toward Kolob Terrace.

The Kolob Reservoir Road intersection, which is the main road onto the terrace is located just east of Virgin UT on the north side of SR 9. Seems to have been an obsession with virgins… We could not get all the way to Lava Point near the northern terminus of the road at the Kolob Reservoir as it was closed due to snow. The expertly drawn yellow line on the map below is the trace of our route.

The road was almost deserted except for us, a couple of other cars, some snow track vehicles and two bicyclists who pushed the long uphill climb so that they could coast back almost 15 miles to Utah SR 9. The Kolob Reservoir Road winds in and out of the park for the first 7 or 8 miles until it firmly commits to being inside the park. There is some different geology to see along this road. The most noticeable is the occurrence of the dark colored columnar basalt cap rocks seen in the picture below and prevalent, along this route. These are relatively young deposits dated at being 220,000 to 310,000 years old. Some of the terrace volcanics are actually less than 10,000 years old and Native American lore appears to contain references to some of these events. There are several volcanic sources along the Kolob Terrace Road, including Firepit and Spendlove Knolls. The underlying sedimentary formation is the Moenkopi Formation which is around 240 to 250 million years old (Early Triassic) having been deposited just after the Permian Extinction Event. This of course means that there is about 245 +/- million years of missing geology in this picture.

Quick geology lesson as some may have questions on the columnar basalts. Columnar basalts form as a result of the cooling and contraction of lava flows. When a thick layer of lava cools, it contracts and forms fractures, creating a pattern of hexagonal columns, although they can sometimes have more or fewer sides. Consider a lava flow. The surface and bottom of the flow cool rapidly, and as these surfaces cool, fractures form on the top and bottom of the flow. The cooling proceeds up from the bottom and down from the top although the air-cooled surface will cool faster than the bottom of the flow. The cooling causes continued contraction of the flow deeper into the flow and the contraction causes fractures perpendicular to the cooling surfaces which tend to follow the original surface fracture traces. This process happens over a significant period, leading to the striking columnar appearance. All lava flows, regardless of composition, can form columnar features.

I should mention that there was a bit of excitement as we headed back down the road. You remember the bicycle folks? They took off before us and we ended up catching up to them as they stopped to rest several times. As they left one rest point, we gave them a bit of a head start but were lucky enough to witness an attack on the bicyclists by a deer jumping off a hill on one side of the road right in front of them as they were doing at least 25-30 mph down the hill. I don’t think it was a pre-meditated attack … but you never know. To their credit the bicyclists did not crash or seem to have to stop to clean out their pants.

A collection of Kolob Terrace photos!

The bottom picture is sort of interesting. This is a “motel/bnb” on a bit of a plateau consisting of rooms (apparently along an electrical line right of way!) built to look like covered wagons and tents. We saw several variations of this on the road into Springdale including a collection of about 30 airstream trailers and another area with yurts. It’s not just the journey… it’s the whole experience. I’m sure that’s how they sell it and I’m also sure this is not budget accommodation. A sucker is born every minute!

We returned to Springdale for the night. We also returned to MeMe’s for another haute cuisine moment as Joni had taken a liking to the craft peach beer offering. We organized our luggage and hit the sack.

Rather than recount the trip back home separately, just a summary here. We hit the road around 8:30 but not util we stopped at a bakery/coffee shop in Springdale for a cookie, a cinnamon roll and coffee. We retraced our outbound route (mostly) back to Cathedral City and all went well into we arrived in Amboy, CA. A Road Closed sign greeted us at the RR crossing and the apologetic fellow sitting in his truck indicated that it would be at least 3 and potentially 5 hours until it reopened due to RR crossing repairs. We turned around and retraced our route back to I-40, stopped in Ludlow at a DQ for a burger but were told the electricity had just come back on so it would be at least 20 minutes until the grill was back in service. Luckily, we had left over MeMe’s crepes and drinks in the cooler, so we sat in the DQ parking lot in Ludlow for a delicious and nutritious lunch. In the end, the detour cost us a little over 2 hours of extra driving and some photo opportunities that we had postponed on the trip north, but it is all part of the adventure.

While reviewing trails on Sunday evening, we found the Zion Narrows Riverside Walk which is at the far north end of the main park scenic drive. The trail (without the wading in the snow fed river extension) is an approximately 2-mile round trip on a very well-maintained trail that has only about a 200-foot elevation gain over the trail. We got up a bit early so that we would be able to get a parking place in the parking area at the trailhead. Once again parking lot karma was on our side, and it all worked out great. Only downside was that the main restrooms were closed for repair and while they had porta potties, I’m pretty sure the inside bathrooms were warmer.

We arrived around 8:30 in the morning and because the North Fork of the Virgin River Canyon is mostly in the shade this time of year until mid to late afternoon, it was cold (45 deg F). The wind was also blowing adding to the chill factor. We had prepared well so we were not particularly uncomfortable, but the chill was noticeable. The walls of the canyon were near vertical and were still primarily the Navajo Sandstone, with a bit of snow for accent.

We ran into the New York couple and Phoenix guy that we had met at the geology talk the day before. Phoenix guy (John) was all decked out in insulated, waterproof waders with a pair of stout hiking sticks and continued up the trail into the river beyond the old folks’ trail ending. He sent us the two photos below of his in the river adventure.

A few people pictures while enjoying the river walk and with our newfound friends.

After our early morning hike, we turned back south on the scenic drive. We did make a couple of stops at pull outs heading south. At one stop that we had visited early in the morning on the way up the river, we had seen a fairly free-spirited looking fellow sitting on top of his van enjoying a cup of something. He was still there about 3 hours later but had switched his intake to something significantly more aromatic and relaxing. Just sitting there staring at the scenery yearning for the ’70s. We were planning on doing a second hike at the Emerald Pools Trail to finish out the days sightseeing. At this point, our parking lot karma expired, and we had to park a bit of a distance from the trailhead. Also, Joni’s leg, which had registered a complaint the evening before, was not being as cooperative as we needed for uphill, trail hiking. In the end we did walk up to the Emerald Pools Trailhead along the Grotto Trail which went from the Zion Lodge area to the trailhead. On the walk, several deer sort of dropped onto the trail apparently thinking that the folks walking would have some morsels for them to enjoy. Again, I think the folks that brave the cold to visit the park are more conscious of the wildlife and scenery and no one walked up to the deer to try to pet them or feed them. Everyone stayed a respectable distance from the deer. It appeared that the deer thought that the humans were being a bit stand offish, and they tentatively relocated closer to the folks on the trail.

All in all, another great scenery and sightseeing day in the park. We had a late lunch, so dinner was not a huge priority but we both thought that we should have something. We found a small place in Springdale called MeMe’s Cafe that advertised burgers, salad and crepes. Opting for a lower key meal, we tried it out and it was very good. By the way, Springdale in late February rolls up the sidewalks pretty early. Not sure where all the tourists go, but it was extraordinarily quiet in the evenings during our visit.

We decided to leave for Zion a day early, so we ended up staying in Hurricane, Ut on Saturday night before our first day in the park. Great choice as we found a very good restaurant called Stagecoach in La Verkin just a stone’s throw from the Hurricane Fault. With enough beer even at my age I could have…. on the fault trace. Great craft beer selection and very good food at a very good price. Anytime craft beer is $6.00 a pint you have found home. I had Chicken Fried Steak recommended by our server who said it was very good, and she was right. A slab of mushroom gravied mashed potatoes with a large piece of perfectly cooked mushroom gravied meat that was well seasoned showed up. Sometimes, restaurants over season the meat with pepper but they did it right. Joni went for a Salmon Oscar. Oscar was a crab cake on top with a sinfully rich sauce (almost a Thanksgiving class feast of butter) that was also very good.

On to the park. With an early departure from Hurricane, and a stop at Lin’s grocery for water, sandwiches and snacks we climbed the Hurricane fault and headed up onto the Colorado Plateau. The geology of all of southern Utah and Northern Arizona is nothing less than spectacular due to the magic of uplift and erosion, and this drive on Utah Highway 9 just reinforced that observation. I suppose the geologic star of the show (not to ignore all of the other contributing formations and structures) as you get closer to the park is the Navajo Formation which is a 190 +/- million-year-old (Jurassic Period) sandstone that towers up to 2,000 feet above the Virgin River Canyon(s). It was deposited as wind borne sands (eolian deposit) in an extreme desert environment that covered the entire Colorado Plateau and beyond. The formation is characterized by its signature and prominent cross bedding due to winds during deposition of the dunes. I was always somewhat impressed that cross bedding in an eolian environment only happens on the lee side of the dunes. After visiting Great Sand Dunes in southern Colorado 45+ years ago it finally all made sense. Dune fields are very mobile with crests moving repositioning themselves covering and uncovering the lee sides of the dunes. As the dunes migrate the inclined layers of sand on the lee side get buried, covered with new sand, compacted and .. bang after a few million or tens of million years and you end up with a consolidated rock formation.

The palteau.

As we entered Springdale, we scoped out our accommodations and then entered the park. We made the requisite stop at the visitor center and dropped a few bucks on a book or two and the Deenan National Park mug. When they allow cars into the park in the off-season, the Rangers monitor key intersections and knowing the number of available parking spaces uphill of the intersection, they cut off access when all available parking spaces could be filled. Then as cars come back through the intersection, they allow new entries. Very civilized and very good at limiting how many of your fellow man you get to enjoy rubbing elbows with on the trails, at the parking stops and in the parking lots. When the shuttles are running, they can and do stuff about 2 to 3 times the parking volume of people into the areas.

We decided for the first day to explore the Mt. Carmel highway and tunnel and vicinity. The highway is Utah State Highway 9 which if you follow it out east and make all the right turns will take you on to Bryce Canyon NP. Besides the views, the tunnel itself is quite the attraction. The tunnel, opened on July 4, 1930, is a 1.1 mile long, curving 2-lane highway that is 800 feet higher in elevation on the east end that cuts through the Navajo Sandstone. There are “windows” and “openings” in the canyon side of the tunnel creating spectacular views. Back in the day when the visitor count was more manageable, and people were more reasonable, there were two pullouts in the tunnel where you could swing the ’59 Ford sedan into the pullout and drink in the views. The pullouts are still there but blocked off.

After traversing the tunnel, we continued to the recommended turnaround before the east entrance to the park which is apparently usually crowded and slow. An aside… have you ever noticed at the entrance to national parks there are an inordinate number of people who want the ranger in the booth to give them a 20-minute verbal tour of the park so that they don’t have to look at a map or figure out anything for themselves? OK enough of that.

We decided to do the Canyon Overlook hike on the east side of the tunnel so headed back to the tunnel hoping that parking lot karma would strike, and we would get a spot. We lucked out!! The hike is a 1-mile +/- round trip that climbs up onto a shelf above the road and heads generally west-northwest with a couple of sporty areas on the trail until you are greeted with a spectacular view of Zion Canyon. I have to say that during this entire trip we met some truly friendly people who seemed to me to not be typical summertime tourists. They all were truly inspired by the park and had a great appreciation for the fact that at one point in time people with foresight thought to protect this area for future generations. We met a couple from Ohio who were touring the Utah parks. Talked with them for about a half an hour. He was a veteran who had served in Afghanistan. Turned out that the lady had an identical jeep as ours. We took heroic pictures of each other to commemorate the event. The hike was amazing, and the views along the trail and the intimate proximity of the trail with the cliffs was very invigorating. The picture immediately below is actually from the National Park Service, but it is a great shot of the overlook.

A selection of our trail pictures follows here.

After the hike, we had lunch sitting on a rock next to the Jeep on the side of the road. Then to top the day off, we stopped back at the visitor center to go to the geology lecture. A very personable, knowledgeable and very young-looking ranger gave a well-organized talk that truly caught the attention of the 10 or so people listening in. We had chatted before the talk, and she found out that we were geologists. A great group, of varied backgrounds asked really insightful questions and she really got into the swing of the talk. We met a couple more or less our age (a bit older) in the group from upstate New York and a 40-ish young guy from Phoenix who we struck up an after talk conversation with. Interestingly, we ran into the same folks the next day while doing the River Trail at the north end of the scenic drive road and chatted it up for another 30 minutes or so. More on that in next installment.

Finished the day back at our hotel which was great (especially at the discount price). A very nice dinner in the hotel restaurant. Most of the entrees were reasonably priced except the prime rib which was going for the princely sum of $110. Must have only had one serving in the fridge.

It has been almost 7 months since I posted to this blog. I have been in a creative malaise for a variety of reasons. I have decided to pull myself up out of the malaise and move forward.

In early December 2024, I spied a hotel offer for a location in Springdale, Ut for a $110 room (remember when Motel 6 really was $6.00/night??). Springdale is at the south entrance to Zion NP and we thought that with the right timing, this accommodation could be the start of a great road trip. The keys to success for this trip were to arrive at Zion before high season when admission metering would not be in effect, shuttles were not running in the park and the weather would be welcoming. It all came together and it could not have worked out better.

In another great stroke of luck or genius, Maps routed us north from Cathedral City to Twentynine Palms and then through a long stretch of relatively deserted 135 mile, two-lane road through the desert to Amboy, Ca on to Kelso, Ca and then on north on I-15 to Las Vegas, up the Virgin River Canyon into St George, Ut and into Hurricane, Ut. where we spent the night. The route took us through the Mojave National Preserve. Both Amboy and Kelso are located in this preservation area.

Another great historical and geologic road trip! Amboy, settled in 1858 is the first of a series of alphabetical railroad stations constructed across the Mojave Desert. Eventually, Route 66 was established in 1926 through Amboy and it is part of the route taken. There is not much in Amboy that is currently open; a closed post office, a closed Route 66 gift shop, a cafe that might be open now and then, what looks like a motel and a couple of houses. Then there is the railroad which at one time was the life blood of Amboy. The BNSF main line still runs through Amboy, but like a lot of small railroad towns that grew up for servicing steam locomotives, Amboy got kicked to the curb. The population is listed as 4 but it looked to us like the number was a bit higher, probably people looking to escape. Near Amboy, there are two geologic features of note. The Amboy Salt Flats which are actually part of a larger, dry lake known as Bristol Lake is actively mined for calcium chloride salts by the National Chloride Company of America. It is a simple operation, they dig canals/ponds into the dry lake bed. In some years, the groundwater is shallow enough that it flows into the excavations. Other times, they pump water from shallow wells into the ponds, allow it to evaporate, leaving the salts which are then picked up with front end loaders. A minimum of processing results in a very high grade of calcium chloride salt. We did not get any pictures of this feature because we figured we would do it on the trip home. That did not work out well and we will have to make a road trip in that vicinity again.

The second geologic feature of interest is the Amboy Crater about 2-3 miles west of Amboy. It is an ash and cinder cone that sits in a 20-30 sq mile pahoehoe lava field. The crater is about 80,000 years old and was last active about 10,000 years ago. Again, we did not get any pictures as we were going to potentially stop there on the trip home. However, the BNSF had other plans that caused our photography stop to be canceled.

From Amboy, there is a jog east on Route 66 and then a turn north toward Kelso, a railroad town that was the base for the San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad which had track rights with Union Pacific which eventually took over operation of the line. Kelso itself is more or less a ghost town, although there are some newer looking structures which may or may not be occupied. It was a boom town during the World War 2 era when troops were traveling to and from deployments by train and also there were numerous mining operations to the southeast of the town for raw construction materials that were shipped out via the Kelso Station. There is a historical site of interest in Kelso; the Kelso Depot, and a geologic point of interest, the Kelso Dune Field located just southwest of town.

The Kelso depot was constructed in 1923 and was actively undergoing restoration when we drove through. It was built as a hotel and restaurant for railroad travelers as trains had to stop in Kelso for water and to have a helper engine attached to pull the steam locomotives up the Cima Hill. The depot was designed to directly compete with the Harvey Houses built along the Santa Fe Line.

Kelso Depot undergoing active remedial construction.

The Kelso Jail and detox center.

The Kelso Dune Field covers about 45 sq. mi. of the Mojave Desert and is the third largest dune field in the US. The dunes are stacked in that they were deposited over five different periods over the last 25,000 years during periods of climate changes. During dry periods, vegetation would decrease and sand would be contributed from the existing dunes and also from the original sand sources, the Soda Lake and Silver Lake dry lake beds. As dry periods subsided, vegetation would take hold in the dunes and would more or less stabilize them until the next climate cataclysm (what a great word!). One of the advertised features of the dunes is that they “sing” when the sand moves. Some reports are that it is more of a booming sand than a singing sound. We will have to visit them and hike up the dunes to make our own decision– or at least Joni can hear what they sound like.

Kelso Dunes looking west.

Kelso Dunes looking northwest

The active dunes sort of put is in the right frame of mind to visit Zion which is dominated by the Navajo Sandstone which is one of the prime example of wind born sediment deposition.

Before getting to the Marquesas, there was a sea day so that the Paul Gauguin could make the almost 600 NM journey to Hapatoni, Tahuata in the southern Marquesas.

A sea day is always a great time. While nothing onboard is ever hurried, a sea day is even lower key. In addition to just enjoying the pool, the bars, the dining, a siesta and even a bit of exercise in the fitness center, on this trip, there were two experts on board providing lectures in the Grand Salon. More on those folks later because their lectures were informative, interesting and entertaining.

We spent 5 days in the Marquesas visiting the islands of Tahuata, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Ua Pou and Nuka Hiva (click to enlarge the image… maybe). In the Marquesan language, the archipelago is called Te Henua Enata, which means “The Land of Men”. The name Marquesas was provided by a pompous Spanish explorer in 1595 as he sailed by.

Due in no small part to the efforts of one of our on-board lecturers, Pascal Erhel, who created a dream and a team, the Marquesas were named a UNESCO World Heritage site in July 2024 for its cultural heritage and value and its abundance and preservation of rare and diverse flora and fauna.

The Marquesas are very different than the Society Islands and the Tuamotu Islands. For one thing they are extremely remote with the average number of tourists visiting each year is rarely above 10,000-15,000 people which is a daily load to Tahiti. Second, the number of inhabitants is significantly less; there are 15 islands, 12 inhabited. Of course, the geology and landforms of all three island groups visited differ significantly.

Geologically all of the Marquesas Islands are volcanic in origin with what one geologist described as “monotonous series of sub-aerial basalt flows…”. There are two locations in the Marquesas that are exceptions to this oversimplification. We visited one of the locations, the island of Ua Po (Marquesan for “pillars”). Ua Pou differs from the other Marquesan Islands in that there is no well-formed caldera and there are 30 or so pillars that dominate the skyline of the island. These features are the result of a difference in the chemistry/mineralogy of the basaltic magma and the temperatures that existed in the subsurface before the magma erupted on the island. For those familiar with Devil’s Tower in Wyoming, the chemistry of the lava in the Marquesas and in Wyoming is very similar and the resulting land feature(s) have similarities.

The Marquesas Island ages decrease from northwest (5.5 Ma at Eiao [off map]) towards southeast (1.1 Ma at Fatu Hiva). The Marquesas shield volcanoes (broad, gently sloping profiles, formed by the eruption of highly fluid lava) experienced collapse of the caldera rims due to thin upper caldera walls and high rates of erosion, which led to the sinking (there is that sinking thing again…)/erosion of half or more of their initial shield volcanos. Most of the current island landforms are made up of a partial outer caldera remnant of the original shield volcano. In the now partial caldera an inner, younger and smaller post-shield volcano is found on most of the islands. There are no coral fringing reefs in the Marquesas Islands for a variety of reasons. The islands experience high winds and surf associated with the winter trade winds that inhibit coral development and are within the El Nino, La Nina zone bringing highly variable (for coral) water temperatures to the island group.

Back to our on-board lecturers. On our sea day, Pascal Ehrel presented the first of three lectures that we would attend, a lecture entitled Motu Haka: A Short History of the Marquesas Islands: Introduction to the Archipelago of Fenua Enata. Motu is a version of the Malayo-Polynesian language family. For rugby players you may recognize the word haka which loosely translated means “dance” but has taken on the meaning “war dance”. The Motu Haka Association is a group of Marquesan and others that have united to gather, safeguard and enhance what of remains of their culture. Fenua Enata as we have seen means “The Land of Men” in referencing the Marquesas Islands. A very interesting and informative lecture which IMHO was made somewhat more entertaining by Pascal’s French accent. Somehow it made the whole event a little more exotic.

The second pair of lectures that we attended were presented by Celine Manet. The first lecture was entitled James Cook – Part 1 (Youth, 1ST Expedition and Return to Tahiti). What a fascinating, intelligent and accomplished guy. Of course, being a captain of a ship back then also entailed being somewhat of a tyrannical despot willing to employ a bit of corporal punishment to keep the swabs in line. But overall, particularly in his younger days, a very interesting fellow and the father of nautical charting and mapping. After the first lecture, I downloaded an Audible biography of Cook to add to the lectures. Again, I think the lectures were somewhat enhanced and made more interesting and tropical with the addition of Ms. Manet’s French accent

Tahuata

We booked an excursion in Tahuata that stopped at several important locations along the coast with ties to the Polynesian culture and with just great views. Excursions in the Marquesas were interesting from the perspective of transportation. The participants were broken into groups of four and transportation was provided by locals in fairly new four-wheel drive pickups. The tour leaders were also local folks who were well versed in the history and of course the culture and were very chatty and obviously proud of their home. Maybe somewhere in these posts, I can incorporate some cultural history as well as current political status. Might just have to go back some day so that there can be follow up blogs!

I tried to add a couple of the islands, but the photo galleries are pretty resource intensive so I will just do each island with short individual posts.

The name Capital Reef was given to this area by early settlers for a couple of reasons. The first settlers decided that the Navajo Sandstone outcrops resembled the dome of the Capitol building in Washington, DC. It is not clear which naming came first, but this one gets my vote; prospectors visiting the area (many with nautical backgrounds) referred to the Waterpocket Fold, an 87-mile-long ridge in the earth’s crust, as a reef, since it was a formidable barrier to transportation.

The Cliff Notes version of Capital Reef Geology supplements other blog posts. The park is still on the Colorado Plateau, so the geologic formations are comprised of many thousands of feet of sedimentary rocks deposited in a variety of environments. The readily visible formations include the Cutler Formation (White Rim Sandstone member) which is a 280-million-year-old (myo) coastal sand dune deposit; the Kaibab Limestone a 270 myo shallow sea deposit; the Moenkopi Formation a 245 myo mud and sandstone formation deposited in shallow seas and flood plains; the Chinle Formation (225 myo) which was deposited primarily in higher energy rivers and consists of petrified logs, sands, muds and windborne volcanic ash; and the Wingate sandstone, the Kayenta Formation and the Navajo Sandstone. The final three formations were deposited primarily under arid desert conditions demonstrated by extensive cross bedding (see pictures). The actual age of these final three formations is somewhat controversial allowing pompous white gentlemen geologists in their late 70’s and 80’s to sit around in big soft leather chairs smoking their pipes, sipping scotch to harumph and rail at the youngsters. In deference to both groups, let’s say the Wingate is 205 myo and the Kayenta and Navajo are younger with the Kayenta deposited between the Wingate and Navajo which was deposited from 190 to 180 mya. Due to the Waterpocket Fold/Monocline, a deep fault caused flexure in the earth’s surface, the older formations are visible on the west side of the park and the younger formations more visible on as you move east. Just to close this out, the uplift and erosion that has created the scenery and views is relatively young, having occurred in the last 45 – 20 million years.

Wow, that got a little out of hand. Sometimes a fit of geologic accuracy hits and you just have to go with it. Since one picture is worth at least 5,000 of my words, here is a NP generated section of the Waterpocket monocline.

We arrived at Capital Reef on the day that they closed the majority of the scenic road for the entire summer to facilitate repairs and rejuvenation. However, we were able to get to Grand Wash along the shortened scenic road which was our long hike trail selection. While the full trail goes from the scenic road through to state highway 24, we opted to do a 3.8 mile out and back portion from the trailhead parking area through the Narrows area. The Wash is an up to 850-foot-deep canyon resplendent with geology and rocks everywhere. We had decided that the canyon walls were about 150 to 200 Joni’s high based on a visual estimate. The hike began with chilly and blustery weather. However, once in the canyon, the winds were blocked, and the sun warmed it up nicely. One of the social highlights of the hike was an encounter with a University of Alaska geology field trip class. Nice bunch of kids who seemed to be pretty focused on their task.

We also hit the Gifford House and bought a couple of pies, the petroglyph site along Utah Highway 24, Panorama Point and the Goosenecks before returning to a Mexican restaurant for the requisite post hike beer and feast.

That wraps up the May Southern Utah trip. We had a great time with Joy, Larry, Cheyenne and Louie and thoroughly enjoyed their hospitality and the opulent RV accommodations. As I have aged, I appreciate the whole concept of more or less regular showers, no-fuss hot coffee in the morning, cold beer in the evening and flush toilets even while “roughing it”.